The trip to our son’s wedding took us to a state that I have always wanted to visit. Located in the far north of the eastern seaboard of America, Maine is famed for its rugged coastline and glorious, forest-filled interior. It is one of the few, truly wild spaces left undeveloped in the country. The reason for this is that it is not for the faint-hearted. Maine winters can stretch from November to the end of April, with brief snow showers extending either side. The summers, in contrast, are hot, and due to the large expanses of water throughout, rather mosquito laden when dusk falls. But if you like sparkling white winters, water sports and hiking, there is really nowhere better to be.
Portland
We began our adventure in Portland – the largest city in the state with fewer than 70,000 inhabitants. (Did I say that Maine was sparsely populated?) It is an interesting mix of quaint 19th century warehouses gentrified into expensive indie boutiques/restaurants and a functioning modern industrial port.
Image: Karen Costello-McFeat
The city, like the state, shows the marked divide in American society between the haves and have nots. Maine is a vacation destination for those escaping the sweltering heat of cities further south. As a consequence, it attracts the most wealthy, and many of the elegant buildings overlooking the shore are vacation homes. Tourism boosts the meagre earnings that can be made from the sea and hospitality.
With the region being the eighth most expensive in the country, few of those working for regular wages can hope to enjoy the good life here. Even the homeless must allow for this. Jeff saw one chap with a cardboard sign asking for a suggested $20 donation. It would buy you a couple of cups of coffee.
Coastal living
As holiday makers ourselves, we could enjoy this fabulous region for a little while at least. My son has settled in a very quaint town about thirty minutes’ drive from Portland and contains all the elements that make Maine so attractive: a historic town centre with pretty colonial buildings; a forested national park and, of course, the coast.
We only had a couple of days there before heading to the wedding destination, but it was the ideal place to catch up with all my family. Their lovely garden was perfect for Sofia to explore and to find natural treasures while the grown-ups enjoyed basking in the sunshine.
Images: Karen Costello-McFeat
We also enjoyed a couple of trips to the endless sandy beach – even braving the North Atlantic sea.
Moving on up
From here we headed a few hours’ north to the picturesque town of Camden, located in Mid-Maine. The houses and strip malls became fewer and the trees more densely packed.
Camden lies on the water in an idyllic setting of coves and tiny islands off-shore and unspoilt landscape to the rear. Like Portland, it caters to the more discerning traveller and is filled with art galleries, book shops, boutiques and gourmet restaurants. Seafood is available everywhere – especially the state’s speciality: lobster. It is served whole or flaked with mayonnaise in a lobster roll. Tasty – but pricey!
While we were there, a number of tall ships were in the harbour and offering tours to visitors. There are few better ways to see Maine’s delights than from the water, with a classic tall ship being the best and gentlest way to travel.
In Camden, we had several reunions with friends and relatives and even more at Genevieve’s father’s home in Bremen. The Spears’ hospitality was incredible, hosting not one but two delightful parties in the grounds of their summer home.
There could be few locations more appealing, as the gardens of the house sloped into the water. We spread out on chairs and picnic blankets, loaded our plates with delicious food and even took a dip in the sea, which was considerably colder here than in southern Maine.
Image: Karen Costello-McFeat
Natural beauties
Of course, for me, no travel is complete without enjoying the local flora and fauna. Maine was blessed with an abundance of flowers – both wild and cultivated – that gilded this already gorgeous lily.
We spotted a little chipmunk crossing the street in Camden and a lone seal in the harbour bay, numerous baby frogs in the pond and butterflies everywhere, but the most exciting spotting was of the Monarch butterfly before it returned home to Mexico.
I had heard of this amazing species that takes three generations to make the migration north plus one to return, but never expected to encounter any. They are HUGE with delicate tracery that would rival a stained glass window. I was enchanted.
Heavenly blessings
After all the catastrophes that preceded our trip, we were naturally anxious about the event to come. What else, we wondered, could go wrong? Though not liable to superstition, it seemed that the universe was telling us not to fret: all would be well. The nights were lit by an enormous full moon, the wet summer had suddenly transformed into Mediterranean gloriousness and the heavens themselves smiled down on us.
After an afternoon swim at the beach, we sat back and admired the cerulean sky, which contained just one very dark charcoal cloud. A few more joined it and a light shower ensued.
‘Oh, we might get a rainbow!’ said Genevieve delightedly.
And sure enough, a few minutes later, a giant bow appeared, arcing across the horizon in glittering colour. Then the miracle happened. It was joined by a second bow, cupping the first. The colours were so intense that we all stood there mesmerised until they slowly dissolved in the sunlight.
Sadly, my son’s camera could not do it justice, but we were too busy looking to take much time away to take pictures. Genevieve, who had so recently lost her mum felt that this was her way of showing she was looking over her and why not? It was no less miraculous than what was in front of our eyes.
These good omens proved correct. The wedding day itself was perfect in every way. And I shall share that with you next week.