Postcards from Battle

There is a reason why my husband’s nickname is Tigger. He quite literally cannot sit still for twenty seconds at a time, but must always be off on some adventure or another.

After my full and wonderful visit with my university friends the weekend before, I had been looking forward to a leisurely bank holiday reading in the garden and stirring myself only to remove the odd annoying weed from the flower beds. Alas, like all best plans, this was set to go ‘agley.’

News of a Medieval fair in Battle came through on my husband’s Facebook feed and, of course, we had to go. That same week, we’d had rather distressing news from Ukraine, so we thought we better take Mariia with us to give her a distraction and cheer her up. I think it worked.

View from the tower Image: Mariia Matrunich

The quaint town was filled with folks in realistic costumes (except perhaps for the trainers peeking out under dresses). The canopied stalls also added authenticity to the Medieval market feel and the surrounding buildings played their part. With the exception of the Abbey, few were eleventh century, but most were certainly old.

Living history

We’d allowed two days to fully explore the fair and I’m glad we gave ourselves that luxury. If we missed an entertainment one day, we caught it the next and there was no urgency when talking to the incredibly well-informed historians displaying their crafts.

We learned about how peasants made candles to light their homes (poorly) and Mariia made a beeswax candle. Though beeswax was, of course, the preserve of the rich. The poor made do with reed dipped in tallow or rushlights made from dried rushes soaked in oil.

Burning rushlight Image: Luchina JPG

We saw how nets were made and how different strengths of rope were required to capture different animals. I was fascinated to discover how often nets, rather than weapons, were used to catch everything from rabbits to wild boar.

And no Medieval fair would be complete without knights. Here there were many of them, walking about in their rather sweltering battle gear.

Since it was a very ‘hands on’ event, we got to see and even try on some of their armour. I lifted some chainmail and could barely raise it from the ground. (Mariia tried it on for size) Yet, this was only one layer. First was a heavy, padded cotton jacket, then the chainmail, and then the armour plate. In the summer heat it must have been unbearable and I cannot imagine what it felt like under the scorching sun of the Holy Land. Of course, once you got it on, you needed assistance to get it off again, so knights in battle were unable to change or go to the bathroom. Figures of romance? I think not.

Our knights were rather more 21st century, with male and female combatants. To overcome the barriers of armour, fighting was very close combat. Seeing them wield their huge swords, axes and hammers gave a chilling view of just how brutal Medieval warfare was.

Maypoles and mayhem

As the fair occurred over the Whitsun holiday, it included some lovely May traditions. The Maypole took centre stage in the bull ring. (The ring was used in the past for animal baiting.) We enjoyed the ‘experts’ doing some classic dances before the audience was invited to have a go. Both were joyful.

Showing us how it’s done
Image: Mariia Matrunich

We were also treated to the antics of some very professional jesters. True to character, they added a little mayhem to the dancing and teased the crowds.

The juggling and fire-eating at the end was truly spectacular. I suspect that one trained at circus school.

And what would a May fair be without a May Queen? Rather charmingly the May Queen and her court were composed of preteen girls who had all practised the royal wave.

And a little more history

The second day, Mariia charmed her way into Battle Abbey and Jeff and I decided to revisit the beautiful church. It was every bit as glorious as I remembered it, with the surrounding church yard now being cultivated to meadow.

Battle Abbey looks on impassively at human high jinks

Inside, all was cool and still. The ancient door gave way to a place of peace and prayer, which has been used for more than a millennium. More than all the crazy activities of the fair, the brilliant costumes and jolly jesters, this gave me a very real sense of my place in the great expanse of time.

How many people had stepped through this ancient arch before me?

And how many had looked to this now faded fresco for instruction?

The church is still very much in use, though I suspect the sermons are somewhat gentler.

I like to think that I found the column where William’s men dulled the blades of their swords in a symbolic show of peace after victory. Sadly, William’s future actions would suggest that they sharpened them soon after.

Be more Tigger

The weekend was over all too soon and I am very glad that I embraced my husband’s enthusiasm for life. A quiet afternoon in the garden may have been restful, but this was much more fun.

Micro-cation

Sometimes you just have to get away. It doesn’t need to be for long and it doesn’t have to be far. Sometimes what is needed is a micro-cation, a mini vacation of just a day or two that is far enough from home to have the novelty of the unfamiliar, but close enough that the journey is no problem at all.

After a very tense few weeks and the disappointment of my son being unable to travel due to health issues, we needed a break. We took it in the nearby town of Battle at a hotel we love. It enabled us to recharge our spirits and soothe our over-stretched nerves. Our son is now well on the way to recovery and plans to reschedule his trip. I’m hoping to take him to Battle when he does. It’s perfect.

The High Street from above Image: Tourist information

National treasures

We are so blessed in the UK with an endless supply of picturesque villages and towns. So much so that it seems almost perverse to look for interesting places abroad when there is so much on our very doorsteps. With the pandemic making travel at best difficult and at worst impossible, now is a good time to explore those treasures that are closer to home.

The town of Battle boasts not only a charming high street filled with independent shops, but a significant historic building in the form of Battle Abbey – built on the site of the somewhat mis-named Battle of Hastings. It makes an imposing focal point to the High Street and I thought of how this place had changed the course of British history forever.

Battle Abbey under a brooding sky Image: Karen Costello-McFeat

Hidden history

Since we had visited the Abbey grounds before, we decided to walk instead around the perimeter and explore the less obvious part of Battle. We were not disappointed. Tucked behind this magnificent building was a narrow street crammed with old houses replete with history; the beginning of the 1066 walk and a perfect Norman church built to serve the Benedictine Abbey opposite in 1115. Were I not coming to the end of my energies, I would have ventured inside. It boasts some wonderful interior features that I am determined to enjoy on my next visit. Exploring new places is like peeling an onion. No sooner have you discovered one layer of interest than another presents itself.

1066 walk
St Mary the Virgin
Images: Karen Costello-McFeat

Ancient door knocker

Going at a walking pace (me on the scooter) we were able to really enjoy our surroundings: the quirky door knockers; the giant trees in the churchyard; the little plaques commemorating significant residents. My favourite was of the Abbot who had been moved from the Abbey to a tiny cottage after Henry VIII’s dissolution of the monastery. I wondered how he had coped with such an enormous change of fortunes.

Travelling the road was like passing through time, with the buildings nodding to every period from the medieval to modern. Steps from the ancient church was a tiny, vintage petrol station nestled discretely just off the pavement. What would the returning crusader knights, who blunted their swords on the walls of the chapel in the church, think of our shiny, motorised steeds?

Powder Mills

After a thorough reconnoitre of the town, a delicious pub lunch and a trip to the local craft shop, we were ready to head to our home for the evening. We had stayed at this hotel some years ago and were determined to return.

One of the beautiful additions clad in Virginia creeper Image: Karen Costello-McFeat

It is a wonderful, country house hotel – a little faded at the edges, a little shabby even in parts, but rich in charm. The original building was an old gun powder mill which detonated itself numerous times (occupational hazard) until it was eventually converted into a hotel. Over the years, additions were added yet somehow always entirely in keeping with the elegant Georgian original.

Delightful as the hotel is, the real enchantment lies in the location. It is set in literally acres of woodland, lakes and fields. Wellington boots are available for guests to use to explore these, often muddy, surroundings. We followed a little trail that wound into the trees and discovered an abundance of sweet chestnuts amongst the leaf litter, which we stuffed into our pockets. The path took us past the water drop that powered the old mill and on to where the trail opened out to a magnificent lake. Set against the brilliant blue sky of late autumn and the woodland palette of ochre, rust, amber and muted greens, it made a breath taking vista.

The lake in autumn finery Image: Karen Costello-McFeat

A change of scene

They say that a change is as good as a rest and certainly in our case it proved true. Though we were away for little more than twenty-four hours, we crammed our days with exploration, delicious meals and the pleasure of outdoors. We met dozens of friendly folks with whom we exchanged plans and pleasantries.

Though autumn may not be the most obvious season for travel, it has its own allure. With prices more affordable and places less crowded, it more than makes up for the lower temperatures. And you do not have to stay for long. A micro-cation of a day or maybe two is enough to immerse yourself somewhere relatively local but engagingly new. Our brief visit has only whet our appetite for more. I’m sure it will be magical at Christmas…