Away Days

Sometimes, you just need to get away: from the demands of keeping a home and garden; from work commitments and away, I would argue, from our mundane selves. When we change our context, everything seems possible.

The thing I love most about a holiday is that it gives us time and permission to dream. We needn’t go far or for long, but we do need to enter into an unfamiliar landscape where our senses are challenged and stimulated.

Our few days in Battle did just that. The stunning landscape of the grounds of the hotel provided endless vistas to nourish our very souls; the delightful town offered both history and humour. Here’s a little taste of our days away.

A place to read, write and muse Image: Karen Costello-McFeat

The storm breaks

Interestingly, the high pressure building for days in the terrible heat broke the day before we left. It felt like a metaphor for our lives. All the stresses that had been building over the last few months felt washed away in the thundering rain.

We woke to a new world, bright and fresh and alive.

It was still hot, but bearably so. For once, an outdoor, unheated swimming pool in the UK was tempting and my husband and I took full advantage of it. We also lounged like normal people do on holiday (our family holidays invariable involve death defying activities or cultural investigations), so it was truly relaxing.

A welcome retreat on a very hot day
Image: Karen Costello-McFeat

I read a novel, wrote my morning pages and finished The Artist’s Way (more on that next week). We ate fish and chips on the steps of Battle Abbey and I imagined all the history that had passed by this place.

With the exception of checking to see if we had a new prime minister, the news was banished. Our time was taken up instead in watching the world and languid conversations.

Life is more sociable with a dog

Hermione was, of course, a star. She introduced us to so many people that I couldn’t count them all. At one pub, where we were having dinner, I’m sure she was patted and fussed by every single person. In doing so, she opened us up to new encounters with lovely folk, who told their stories and we ours.

Perhaps we need a furry creature to break the barriers of shyness or polite behaviour. The English are normally so reserved, but bring a dog into the equation and they are positively voluble.

One lady, having given Hermione a good belly rub said enigmatically, ‘I needed that.’ Because sometimes, we just need to show affection and have the warmth of a positive response to make us feel human again. Who knows what was troubling her, but I’m glad that Hermione could give her a little respite.

Great companions! (Hermione and my husband) Image: Karen Costello-McFeat

A not too perfect life

Our hotel, the weather, everything was verging on perfection. One would expect this to be a good thing, but sadly it was not. Friendly dog patters aside, the hotel had its share of rather grumpy and miserable looking folks: couples who barely spoke to one another; people complaining of the ‘conference coffee’ served at breakfast; and even I fell into grumbling at the buzz of lawn mowers disturbing our peace. I was also feeling a bit frustrated by all my husband’s long walks with the dog and early morning swims in the pool. Why, I wailed inwardly, could I not join him? I hate this stupid disease.

Yes, I had a mini pity party. Then I looked down at my breakfast plate and saw the abundance of delicious food; looked up and saw the glorious grounds; looked across at my super husband and dog. Hmm. How quickly we fall prey to the idea that the world should serve us absolutely. How quickly, when life is almost perfect, does the slightest thing annoy.

It was time to recalibrate, because I realised that the reason the wealthy are often the most miserable is precisely because, like Tantalus, all they want is just beyond. But unlike Tantalus, it is not because they can’t reach food or drink, but rather that no sooner have they grasped it than they want something more, something better. As Westerners, we are all guilty of this to some degree.

Having acknowledged this truth and deciding to keep gratitude always at the centre of my thoughts, I went on a long walk around the lake that very evening. I managed to go much further than I thought possible and unusually did not suffer the exhaustion and burning in my legs that usually follows such exertions. Perhaps, having rested all day, I was better prepared, or perhaps, the universe was showing its approval.

History and humour

One can hardly go to Battle without thinking of history. The place is steeped in it: from the imposing Medieval Abbey to the half timbered Elizabethan dwellings to the elegant, symmetrical Georgian homes. This visit, I had vowed to explore the church opposite the Abbey and of almost equal antiquity. The Abbey had brought considerable wealth and prestige to the area and with it a burgeoning population. This church was where they could go to worship.

Founded 1115, it is classically Norman. It’s beautiful vaulted ceilings with dark beams and plain, pillared arches either side of the nave typify what we think of as an early Medieval church. But I suspect that the churchgoers of the Medieval period had a rather more lively prospect. High above on the left (facing the altar) are faded but once vivid frescoes. No doubt there were more, providing a sumptuous, visual feast for all those attending.

Ironically, the church now provides a respite from the onslaught of image and colour that we all face. The only real touches of colour are supplied by exquisitely executed kneelers with local and historic scenes.

St Mary’s, Battle
Image: Karen Costello-McFeat
A far from Christian kneeler
Image: Karen Costello-McFeat

And lastly, I am delighted to note that aside from its seriously impressive history, this small town has a wonderful sense of humour. Each season, the yarn bombers do their best to add a little colour and whimsey. This month, in line with the scarecrow festival, they have produced my favourite scarecrow- Ariyarna Grande.

On a lighter note
Image: Karen Costello-McFeat

Immersed for a few days in such exceptional surroundings made me focus on the thread of history and how it weaves through all our lives. This history was expressed through creativity: of magnificent architecture, painting, tapestry and yes, even yarn bombing. All took skill, all took mastery of an art form and all took patience. For the events of history are past, but the work of the artist as it responds and responds again to changing times, lives on.

Micro-cation

Sometimes you just have to get away. It doesn’t need to be for long and it doesn’t have to be far. Sometimes what is needed is a micro-cation, a mini vacation of just a day or two that is far enough from home to have the novelty of the unfamiliar, but close enough that the journey is no problem at all.

After a very tense few weeks and the disappointment of my son being unable to travel due to health issues, we needed a break. We took it in the nearby town of Battle at a hotel we love. It enabled us to recharge our spirits and soothe our over-stretched nerves. Our son is now well on the way to recovery and plans to reschedule his trip. I’m hoping to take him to Battle when he does. It’s perfect.

The High Street from above Image: Tourist information

National treasures

We are so blessed in the UK with an endless supply of picturesque villages and towns. So much so that it seems almost perverse to look for interesting places abroad when there is so much on our very doorsteps. With the pandemic making travel at best difficult and at worst impossible, now is a good time to explore those treasures that are closer to home.

The town of Battle boasts not only a charming high street filled with independent shops, but a significant historic building in the form of Battle Abbey – built on the site of the somewhat mis-named Battle of Hastings. It makes an imposing focal point to the High Street and I thought of how this place had changed the course of British history forever.

Battle Abbey under a brooding sky Image: Karen Costello-McFeat

Hidden history

Since we had visited the Abbey grounds before, we decided to walk instead around the perimeter and explore the less obvious part of Battle. We were not disappointed. Tucked behind this magnificent building was a narrow street crammed with old houses replete with history; the beginning of the 1066 walk and a perfect Norman church built to serve the Benedictine Abbey opposite in 1115. Were I not coming to the end of my energies, I would have ventured inside. It boasts some wonderful interior features that I am determined to enjoy on my next visit. Exploring new places is like peeling an onion. No sooner have you discovered one layer of interest than another presents itself.

1066 walk
St Mary the Virgin
Images: Karen Costello-McFeat

Ancient door knocker

Going at a walking pace (me on the scooter) we were able to really enjoy our surroundings: the quirky door knockers; the giant trees in the churchyard; the little plaques commemorating significant residents. My favourite was of the Abbot who had been moved from the Abbey to a tiny cottage after Henry VIII’s dissolution of the monastery. I wondered how he had coped with such an enormous change of fortunes.

Travelling the road was like passing through time, with the buildings nodding to every period from the medieval to modern. Steps from the ancient church was a tiny, vintage petrol station nestled discretely just off the pavement. What would the returning crusader knights, who blunted their swords on the walls of the chapel in the church, think of our shiny, motorised steeds?

Powder Mills

After a thorough reconnoitre of the town, a delicious pub lunch and a trip to the local craft shop, we were ready to head to our home for the evening. We had stayed at this hotel some years ago and were determined to return.

One of the beautiful additions clad in Virginia creeper Image: Karen Costello-McFeat

It is a wonderful, country house hotel – a little faded at the edges, a little shabby even in parts, but rich in charm. The original building was an old gun powder mill which detonated itself numerous times (occupational hazard) until it was eventually converted into a hotel. Over the years, additions were added yet somehow always entirely in keeping with the elegant Georgian original.

Delightful as the hotel is, the real enchantment lies in the location. It is set in literally acres of woodland, lakes and fields. Wellington boots are available for guests to use to explore these, often muddy, surroundings. We followed a little trail that wound into the trees and discovered an abundance of sweet chestnuts amongst the leaf litter, which we stuffed into our pockets. The path took us past the water drop that powered the old mill and on to where the trail opened out to a magnificent lake. Set against the brilliant blue sky of late autumn and the woodland palette of ochre, rust, amber and muted greens, it made a breath taking vista.

The lake in autumn finery Image: Karen Costello-McFeat

A change of scene

They say that a change is as good as a rest and certainly in our case it proved true. Though we were away for little more than twenty-four hours, we crammed our days with exploration, delicious meals and the pleasure of outdoors. We met dozens of friendly folks with whom we exchanged plans and pleasantries.

Though autumn may not be the most obvious season for travel, it has its own allure. With prices more affordable and places less crowded, it more than makes up for the lower temperatures. And you do not have to stay for long. A micro-cation of a day or maybe two is enough to immerse yourself somewhere relatively local but engagingly new. Our brief visit has only whet our appetite for more. I’m sure it will be magical at Christmas…